IH no. 56 6 row planter
IH no. 56 6 row planter
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What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Indiana80Posted 12/27/ 12:25 (#)
Subject: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Just starting out and looking for older used planter. What kinds of things should one look for? I see some with old fertilizer boxes and tanks, some are no til, some have monitors. Looking for something fairly simple to use, work on and find parts for. Thanks! German Shepherd
Posted 12/27/ 12:36 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
A 900, 950, or 955 CIH Cyclo is about as simple a planter as you can get. Not only simple buy work great in no til situations with little or no modifications. Plus you get the simplicity of one or two central boxes rather than all those individual boxes.
Gerald J.Posted 12/27/ 12:38 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
JD does all those well. A monitor is super handy to catch glitches in the system, but its important to test the pieces. The finger meters benefit from occasional calibration on a test stand, the cup meters for beans are reliable but not for counting see, Kinze brush bean units fit perfectly and count perfectly.
Watch out for worn out gauge wheel arm bearings and press wheel tail pivots. They can be replaced with aftermarket parts as well as Deere parts, but doing all can cost seriously.
Fertilizer tends to rot steel. Old fertilizer systems tend to be very rusty and hard to make work.
Early cyclo "planters" tend to count accurately and to place seed in clumps. Central fill is handy though its a lot more lifting than a parked in the planting position.
Gerald J. Ed Winkle
Posted 12/27/ 12:50 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Martinsville, Ohio
Main thing it is straight, the units all move freely up and down, it lifts and raises properly and everything turns smoothly. Might be hard to find on a used planter! It sure helps if all the parts are within original specs. It really helps if it isn't rusty although my rusty old planter planted better than anything I ever used after I went through it a few times!
There are so many add on parts you have to understand how they work and what their specs were too.
It would help to take an older farmer with you who understands planters.
I find more John Deere's than about any other planter used and they are a good one to work with too. I never owned a finger planter though I have worked on a few.
Ed Indiana80
Posted 12/27/ 13:17 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
So,... with a no-till does any pre plant groundwork need to be done, ie light discing or just kill the weeds and have at it? TD15
Posted 12/27/ 13:17 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Posted 12/27/ 13:28 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Scribner, NE
Scribner, NE
Ten years ago I started no tilling with a JD wing fold planter. I purchased the planted new in as a wing fold wide 38" rows. Over the years (I finally traded it two years ago for a hydraulic drive) I rebuilt it several times, converted it to a 30" by narrowing it and added the Sunco row cleaners, which was a nice adjustment for no till. I never have issues with the frame or anything else including the vacuum meter. There are so many after market parts that are easily obtained. I really liked the planter. pbutlerPosted 12/27/ 13:40 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Macon, IL
Macon, IL
Ditto what Gerald said. s are simple and parts are plentiful and cheap.Make sure frame is good-anything else can be fixed with a set of wrenches.
How big you looking to go? Indiana80
Posted 12/27/ 13:48 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
pbutler - 12/27/ 13:40
Ditto what Gerald said. s are simple and parts are plentiful and cheap.
Make sure frame is good-anything else can be fixed with a set of wrenches.
How big you looking to go?
I think 4 row. I have a 271 massey ~(70hp). Someone said it might handle a 6 row. codyfarms
Posted 12/27/ 14:01 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Central Indiana
Posted 12/27/ 14:04 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
I used to pull a 6 row white with our MF 165 Iowa Quality Hay
Posted 12/27/ 14:10 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Grabill, Indiana
Grabill, Indiana
We started with a 6 row White with Martin Row Cleaners. It is an easy planter to use and maintain. We plan to add a population monitor to it this winter. SD-455Posted 12/27/ 14:22 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Northeast Indiana (Auburn)
Posted 12/27/ 14:45 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Colorado
Colorado
Another vote for a white. Very simple reliable planter.An occasional gauge wheel arm seizing up is about the only issue we&#;ve had. Gerald J.
Posted 12/27/ 14:56 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: 4 row
I pulled my 4 row set up for no till with straight coulters and Dawn trash whippers with my MF-135 carrying my 65 gallon sprayer on the three point (never more than half full, else I had only brakes for steering, hard to make precise guess rows that way) running RPM low end of working range shifted up to move about 4.5 mph. I used the sprayer to put 32% 2" off the rows behind the flat plow coulters. First part of a split application that made very good use of nitrogen. It used very little gas and wasn't yet working hard. If I could have handled the tongue weight, probably could have pulled an 8 row with the 135, and probably would have been working it as hard as plowing.
Earlier on I used a 6 row cyclo 400 and the 135 could move it OK but was not quite master, turning the tractor rears sometimes slid sideways, but I didn't break anything.
Gerald J. pbutler
Posted 12/27/ 14:58 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Macon, IL
Macon, IL
Not sure horsepower on 271, but I pulled a 6-row in no-till with Massey 255. But on hills in afternoons in May planting beans it would run hot. Rest of time a pretty good setup. Obviously 6-row will cost you more if you rework or add stuff-which you likely will for . (IH guys flame away)
I planted a lot of acres with this setup over my first few years. Paid for itself more than once.
Edited by pbutler 12/27/ 14:59
Gerald J.
Posted 12/27/ 15:05 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: No till
No till means NO tillage, no disking, no field cultivator, no plowing. One year in a hurry, I ran the FC shallow working in 32%. Created a 2" deep hard pan on TOP. Otherwise if you stir the ground you never let it get mellow naturally which it will if you truly notill.
There are special models of for notill, with wide waffle coulters that I think make a mess of the ground, especially if its critically damp turning into a ground packing roller rather than a ground loosening coulter. I used the flat coulter to open a slot for 32%N for corn and to cut corn stover so it spread easily with the trash whippers. Trash whippers open up the rows for soil warming and direct seed to soil contact in no till.
Gerald J.
Posted 12/27/ 15:06 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Though I think there were probably 50 JD s made for each White . NT
Gerald J. GrainTrader
Posted 12/27/ 15:16 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
20 Miles West of Indianapolis Indiana
20 Miles West of Indianapolis Indiana
my personal opinion if i was buying a planter for smaller acerage and using a tractor like your talking about i'd try to get a 6 row series john deere. they are as basic as they come in my opinion. 4 row might be just fine depending on what you want to do in the future, but with a 6 compared to a 4 row you can get 50% more done at the same speed or the same done at a slower speed and in theory do a better job. it will cost 50% more to "fix up" a 6 row, but it will also last 50% longer in theory.....also if you ever get a little bit bigger tractor and you wanted to add a splitter bar for soybeans, it is easy to add them to series deere planters.
as far as monitors go you can get as fancy or as low budget as you want, but personally i wouldn't go to the field to plant corn without one.
Gerald J. has kind of been an expert on them from what i've read on here in the past. i'd trust whatever he says about them..... GrainTrader
Posted 12/27/ 15:19 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: also....
20 Miles West of Indianapolis Indiana
20 Miles West of Indianapolis Indiana
series Deere planter gets my vote because of parts availability. i would venture to bet they are one of the most widely used planters still today, so new parts are still being made by deere as well as many other aftermarket companies. allong with the availabitlity of used parts when applicable.
Indiana80Posted 12/27/ 15:22 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
This is all very good info guys I appreciate all the feedback. Now I know what to be looking for! PE.
Posted 12/27/ 15:53 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
Want more information on 6 Row Seeder? Feel free to contact us.
WC MN
Posted 12/27/ 17:44 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: I planted with a for about 8 years.
I planted with a for about 8 years. I was 4 row wide, I converted it to 4 row narrow then made it notill.
Trick I used was to decide it was what I wanted, then I bought parts book and op manual and studied them before I bought planter so I had a better idea what to look for when at auctions or dealer lots.
The main wear points are the gauge wheel arms and the tail piece pivots where the tail piece carries the closing wheels. There are repair parts available from Deere, Shoup, Ag Express, and RK (IIRC) for these and finger parts from Deere and Precision Planters as well as Kinze. Kinze built some for Deere on contract and then built them with the Kinze name when they couldn't get enough row units from Deere to fit their own bars. Deere sued and lost so Kinze has the right to continue to build the design. Kinze bean units are far superior to the original Deere bean cups. Reports I have seen are that the RK parts for gauge wheels and tail piece are the best available, considerably better than the originals. You can tell a lot about the care in acres planted by checking the sideways flop of the gauge wheels. They can be really worn or can be really tight. Most buyers seeing the loose ones won't pay much for the planter.
Not say that drive shaft bearings and chains won't wear, the will and sometimes the chains will rust rigid. They are standard chains so replacement is not a big deal. Indeed its not hard to change sprockets to achieve planting rates not in the book. And you will learn so much from having the proper op manual that its a really bad idea to not have the manual.
The uses the same row units, but three point hitch instead of drawn behind. Takes a bigger tractor because its fairly heavy.
Mice love to nest in the booms and liquid effluent from their little ones can rust the steel hydraulic tube to the marker cylinder. I separated marker and main lift cylinder so I could get the marker down more rapidly and so have the marker mark to the end of the row, not 20' from the end of the row. They both are effectively single ended on the 4 and 6 row planters so it didn't cost any new hoses to make the separation, just a couple adapters and a cylinder vent to convert the double acting lift cylinder to single acting.
I also changed the hitch to a trailer ball hitch which cuts down on marker steering of the planter and I braced the marker disks so they cut a good trench.
Gerald J. Kooiker
Posted 12/27/ 18:17 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Lots of questions.
What is the budget? What size planter are you looking for?
A 70 hp tractor should be able to handle either a 4 or 6 row in most conditions.
What crops are you going to use it for? Are you going to notill or do tillage? Do you need fertilizer on the planter? Any corn following corn? If you are planting corn what size is the corn head?
Do you want to plant narrow row (15"-19") beans?
If the budget allows for it a White is a really nice simple planter that can plant into most any condition and most wear parts are available through Shoup. Splitter bars are available for narrow row beans if that is something you want.
If you're not in a hurry they can be found pretty reasonable, but if there isn't a White planter dealer within 200 miles it probably still isn't a very good idea.
A White is an option also but they aren't built as heavy and just aren't quite as nice of a planter as the but they are very cheap to buy.
Sorry I didn't answer your question but its hard to recommend anything without more info.
kyler309
Posted 12/27/ 19:45 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: What to look for/avoid in first planter?
I heard white is a good simple planter. Kinze is real simple too. I like kinze but you might get a white for a better price out of all of them. Indiana80
Posted 12/28/ 13:14 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Lots of questions.
Kooiker - 12/27/ 18:17
What is the budget? What size planter are you looking for?
A 70 hp tractor should be able to handle either a 4 or 6 row in most conditions.
What crops are you going to use it for? Are you going to notill or do tillage? Do you need fertilizer on the planter? Any corn following corn? If you are planting corn what size is the corn head?
Do you want to plant narrow row (15"-19") beans?
If the budget allows for it a White is a really nice simple planter that can plant into most any condition and most wear parts are available through Shoup. Splitter bars are available for narrow row beans if that is something you want.
If you're not in a hurry they can be found pretty reasonable, but if there isn't a White planter dealer within 200 miles it probably still isn't a very good idea.
A White is an option also but they aren't built as heavy and just aren't quite as nice of a planter as the but they are very cheap to buy.
Sorry I didn't answer your question but its hard to recommend anything without more info.
Well im just starting out and only looking to do very little acres, maybe 10? I am looking at probably beans the first go round. I do not know much about which row width yet. As far as money goes, well, Im spending cash and need money leftover for all the inputs like seed and chem and so on. I am hoping to do this on 5k or less if possible?!? TD15
Posted 12/28/ 13:29 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Lots of questions.
Posted 12/28/ 13:56 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Lots of questions.
TD15 - 12/28/ 13:29
If ten acres is all you should consider growing sweet corn and selling it roadside.
Does planting and growing sweet corn require the same methods and inputs as field corn? TD15
Posted 12/28/ 16:30 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Lots of questions.
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I would say so, maybe not plant the whole ten acres the first year, but you could setup a roadside stand and pick it by hand , would be more profitable per acre and wouldn't have the harvesting cost. Downside you would have to be able to pick it every morning when it is ready and then have someone running your stand. Just an idea.