Marine Sanitation Hoses: "What's That Smell?
Marine Sanitation Hoses: "What's That Smell?
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Marine Sanitation Hoses
Marine Sanitation Hose:
Odors from a boat's sanitation system can originate from many sources:
Inlet hose and bowl rim: Organic matters from sea water inlet into the toilet can disintegrate and emit rotten egg smell from the flush water.
Holding tank gases can find their way into a boat's interior either through the toilet or the vent system.
Consider just starting here to make things simple
Hose permeation is a most common cause of odors from the sanitation system. Choosing the correct hose for new installation or replacement is important for making the system odor-free for several years of use. The most commonly used hose materials include PVC, EPDM rubber, and Butyl rubber.
Rubber hoses are better for low permeability compared to PVC and hence have longer warranties. Butyl rubber has better resistance against oils compared to EPDM. Both EPDM and butyl have better resistance to alcohol used in winterization than PVC hose.
While choosing sanitation hose, consider the following:
1. Long life: Raritan Sani/Flex Odor Shield has a special white butyl rubber compound to stop sewage odor from escaping the hose. It is 15 times more resistant to odor permeation than standard PVC hose and carries a 5-year warranty against odor permeation.
2. Ease of installation: Sani/Flex Odor Shield hose is extremely flexible. It will bend on a radius of 3.15" without kinking. It can easily be installed on standard hose barb fittings without excessive effort, with no need to heat or lubricate the hose. These are major benefits for all installation mechanics who have spent long, difficult periods of time wrestling with other brands of sanitation hose.
3. Strength against collapsing and pressure: Sani/Flex Odor Shield hose is reinforced. It contains a double steel wire helix reinforcement embedded in the butyl rubber, plus synthetic textile yarn, to resist bursting from high pressure and/or clogs at fittings. It is rated for 315 PSI burst pressure. It is also extremely resistant to collapsing from pump suction and/or vacuum applications.
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4. Handling and use: Sani/Flex Odor Shield hose is abrasion and chemical-resistant. It has an outer wrap of smooth rubber embedded fabric to resist abrasion, ozone, seawater, and common chemicals. An antibacterial additive has also been added to the outer wrap, to further reduce chances for odor permeation.
Tech tips:
Permeation Test
If you suspect hose permeation may be the source of your odor issue, we suggest this simple test: Dampen a cloth in hot water (as hot as you can safely handle). Wrap the cloth around the suspected hose and let it cool. Remove and sniff the cloth. If the odor transfers to the cloth, the hoses are permeated and should be replaced. Be sure to check all hose connections; just because one passes the test doesn’t mean others will — especially those that have the potential to trap waste.
Hose Replacement Do's and Don'ts
Do plan out your hose routing carefully. The leading cause of hose permeation is waste that is left to collect in sections of the discharge plumbing line. Avoid any unnecessary rises or sags in the plumbing line and let gravity drain the hose as much as possible. Yes, we know it’s a boat, so when this simply isn’t possible we suggest you flush the head several times before you leave. Replacing the effluent with only water will reduce permeation possibility significantly.
Don’t use heat or lubricants to assist in your installation. Sani/Flex Odor Shield is designed so those extra steps are unnecessary. Its smooth interior makes barbed hose connections very easy to work with, and its ability to bend on a 3 1/2" radius makes it the most flexible sanitation hose on the market.
Do make sure to use high-quality stainless steel hose clamps on all hose adapters. Using fasteners that can break or corrode can lead to sewage leakage or worse — catastrophic flooding.
Do not take any shortcuts! Make sure all connections below the waterline are double clamped!
Be sure to buy your marine sanitation hoses here.
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What size sanitation hose
sdowney717 said: Click to expand...
Entry hole?
Yes, closing the intake should help. Once you get the bowl clear, that would help inject a solution like Sew Clean if the problem is that the discharge hose is clogged with scale.
(Ours, which had been working fine, apparently dried out while I had the system open for a few days doing other stuff, and that's what caused the scale or whatever to harden, serious clog. Before using the SC stuff, we apparently had just enough of a pathway through that water in the bowl would eventually siphon itself through the hose and into the holding tank.)
If you really have to do any take-it-apart service, you'll appreciate having pumped out/rinsed/repeated in advance.
Under normal circumstances, the macerator should be able to break up any solids... so that it's mostly a liquid going out through the discharge hose. If you have something in there that isn't turning to liquid or is otherwise blocking the macerator blade (wet wipe? etc.?), a plunger may or may not help dislodge that enough to capture it.
A plunger may be hard on the joker valve. Using it to "push" may be OK, but using it to "pull" may invert the joker valve permanently... Just a guess, though...
I was thinking of these threads, mis-remembering that they're actually two separate threads. In any case, see especially the second thread, Peggie's post #26 which illustrates the clog:
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/vacuflush-blowing-fuse-.html#post
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/muriatic-acid-clean-toilet-.html
-Chris
Entry hole? Yes, closing the intake should help. Once you get the bowl clear, that would help inject a solution like Sew Clean if the problem is that the discharge hose is clogged with scale. (Ours, which had been working fine, apparently dried out while I had the system open for a few days doing other stuff, and that's what caused the scale or whatever to harden, serious clog. Before using the SC stuff, we apparently had just enough of a pathway through that water in the bowl would eventually siphon itself through the hose and into the holding tank.) If you really have to do any take-it-apart service, you'll appreciate having pumped out/rinsed/repeated in advance. Under normal circumstances, the macerator should be able to break up any solids... so that it's mostly a liquid going out through the discharge hose. If you have something in there that isn't turning to liquid or is otherwise blocking the macerator blade (wet wipe? etc.?), a plunger may or may not help dislodge that enough to capture it. A plunger may be hard on the joker valve. Using it to "push" may be OK, but using it to "pull" may invert the joker valve permanently... Just a guess, though... I was thinking of these threads, mis-remembering that they're actually two separate threads. In any case, see especially the second thread, Peggie's post #26 which illustrates the clog: -Chris
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